After nearly a year of no posts, I’ve been inspired to open up the laptop once again. There are many things that have come up in our lives since last August, but what is top of mind for me is the adventure we just had on the Upper Missouri River here in Montana.
Following up on our relentless pursuit these past couple of years of all things Lewis and Clark, we decided to take a guided canoe trip to see the wild and scenic White Cliffs which so inspired our guys, L&C. Peter and I had driven over three thousand miles on highways that followed their route, but we knew that this stretch of the Upper Missouri, which is a couple of hundred miles, was not accessible by roads. It can only be experienced from the Missouri River and it is one of the very few places the Corps traveled that probably looks a lot like what they saw on the westward trip in late May, 1805 and the return trip in July, 1806.
We signed up for our first-ever guided canoe trip of four days and three nights with the Upper Missouri River Guides, out of Fort Benton, Montana. We were impressed with the reviews and descriptions of their trip options. Two of the highlights that pushed us in their direction were the equipment they use: high quality Wenonah fiberglass and Kevlar canoes and 12 oz. carbon fiber bent shaft paddles; and the ThermaRest inflatable mattresses (because sleeping on the ground has NEVER been a favorite option for us). One of the other bonuses was we would get to camp in two of the places where the Corps itself had camped. On May 31,1805, Lewis had written, “the hills and the river Cliffs which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance. The water in the course of time…has trickled down the soft sand Clift and woarn (sp) it into a thousand …figures. As we passed it seems as if those seens (sp) of visionary inchantment (sp) would never have an end”. His prescient words, written at Eagle Creek where we would later camp, barely touched the surfaced of what we would soon see for ourselves.
On June 27, the night before we took off, we drove to Fort Benton, Montana, founded in 1846, and the inner most navigable port on the extensive Mississippi River transportation system. First a busy fur trading post, then later an Army base, it became a busy port during the riverboat prosperity of the 1860s. That all ended in the late 1890s with the arrival of railroads that bypassed the town on their way to Helena and Great Falls. We booked a room at the historic Grand Union Hotel, which had been built in 1882 but closed two years later. It has fortunately been brought back to life and we had a lovely dinner and a solid night’s sleep before heading into our adventure.
June 28 was a sunny and cool morning and we arrived at the river guide headquarters about 8:00AM, carrying our newly re-packed bags. The night before we had an orientation at the hotel and one of our guides, Orion, brought us the essential “dry bags” for our things. These were large, rubberized bags seemingly impervious to weather and all neatly labeled and color-coded with our names. The larger of the two, the “checked bag”, would carry our sleeping bag, pillow, clothing, hiking shoes, and other personal care items. The smaller of the two, the “carry on bag”, would stay at our feet in the canoe for immediate access to rain gear, water, sunscreen, camera, sunglasses and similar urgent items. We were ready to get going.
As the crew packed up all our gear and the trailer with the canoes, we met our fellow travelers. There was a total of eight of us, plus two guides. We were traveling with our friend Marcia, and so the three of us met the others – one other couple about our age, and a young family of three, including their young son. We spanned the age spectrum from late 70s to one 5 year old with a wide range of experience and talent in between. One of our guides was a local guy named Colter who was 21 and had been working at the company since he was 13. The other, Orion, was roughly my son’s age (mid-40s) and had been with the company for three years following time as a member of the U.S. ski team (as a free-style skier), a kayaker, a fisherman, a ski coach and a native of Telluride, CO. It was this awareness of the range of life experiences and physical capabilities of others in my group, and what I learned about myself in the process, that proved to be most life-changing on the entire trip, but more on that below.
After packing up, it took us about 45 minutes to drive to the launch site at Coal Banks (see the map at the end of this post). We got into our 2-person canoe around 10:00AM and after a short lesson in steering (Peter’s job) and paddling (my job) it was show time. We pushed off and I felt a mix of joy and trepidation at the prospect of the wide open river (thankfully relatively calm) and how we would navigate. The first hour of paddling was awkward as I tried to work out a rhythm and a technique. Peter was learning how to steer the canoe since his job was to be the rudder. We lurched occasionally toward the shoreline, unable to keep in line or up with the four other canoes. Colter was solo in the one with the most gear, then the young family had their own canoe, and our friend Marcia got to ride with Orion in the other gear-loaded canoe. I think we must have stopped for lunch after a second hour but I don’t recall because by now, I knew I was struggling to keep it together in knowing what to do. I do recall that we saw 2 bald eagles soaring over head and I took that as an affirmation to keep on keeping on.
We had to make it to Eagle Creek for camp and that was 13 miles down the river. After about 4 hours paddling, we neared the shoreline. Dark clouds began to build and the wind picked up, all of which served as an analogy to the darkening and increasingly intense pain I was feeling with my back and torso muscles, now screaming at me. Years ago, on our first horse-packing trip in Wyoming, there was a similar protest staged by every muscle in my body after 6 hours on horseback. This served as a repeat of the unpleasant experience. We managed to unload our canoes and made a mad scramble to a place to pitch our tents. I thought, “Oh no, tents!” We had no experience putting up a tent so we had to wait patiently in our rain gear for one of the guides to get us going. The wind was building, rain began to fall, the skies darkened further and a few miles away, lighting began to strike the low green hills. It was about 4:30PM by now and I asked myself what made me think this was a good idea.
Somehow, with the guides’ help, we got the tent up, I found the Tylenol and I think I took 2, or was it 3? Anyway, then we went about organizing the inside of our little tent: tossed the bags into one corner, dug out flashlights and Luci solar lanterns, inflated the mattress, unrolled sleeping bags and took out pillows, trying not to engage in the dialog running in our heads over the wisdom of doing this trip. But then, the rain stopped, the clouds broke, the delicious golden light of the late-day sun functioned like a balm and our hosts called us to dinner. The food was delicious, hot, and plentiful and they did all the work. As much as I wanted to do the after-dinner hike back up the hill, I joined Peter in deciding not to attempt it. It was one of a couple of decisions over the next few days where I had to weigh what was actually feasible for me given how I had just pushed myself, weighing the risk of potential injury, and the unknowing of how much lay still ahead. So instead, for about half an hour Peter and I walked around the wide open field, up one easy dirt road and marveled at the fact that we were actually here watching the day shut down over the Upper Missouri.
On day two, we broke camp and paddled down the river through astonishing rock formations. Dark igneous rock, interjected next to the white cliffs, once served at sign posts for the river captains working their way up to Fort Benton. They, like us, passed The Citadel, and La Barge Rock. More bald eagles appeared along the way and it was easy to see why Lewis would write, “the bluffs …rise to the hight (sp) to 300’…formed of white sandstone. The earth on the top of these clifts (sp) is a dark rich loam which … extends back from the river…Nature presents…vast ranges of walls…so perfect…that I should have thought that nature had attempted…masonry”. We had just a few hours and a total of 8 miles of paddling on day 2 and stopped for the night at Hole-in-the-wall, a huge meadow on the south side shoreline along a curve in the river which faced glorious sandstone walls on north side. The warmth of the sunshine, a gentle breeze at our back, the lighter paddling time, along with Tylenol throughout the day, and some adjustments to my paddling technique, yielded improved results in my sore muscles. This time setting up our tent was easier since the campsite had some clearly delineated tent circles in the tall grass. Please note, we did still need assistance from the guides.
On day three I was awakened at 4:30AM by the most beautiful serenade of birds in the pre-dawn light. I got up and opened the tent to greet that new day with delight. We were fed another marvelous breakfast of pancakes with real maple syrup and a homemade venison sausage that was grilled to perfection. We broke camp and stopped less than a mile downriver at the base of the rock cliff, Hole-in-the-wall. We were offered a hike up the saddle and then a scramble up the rocks to the mesa top. Between the vertical climb, the “scramble over rocks” part and the realization that we had 13 miles of paddling ahead, beginning at noon time, Peter and I declined. It was a wise decision as we later learned.
Technically, there are no rapids on the Missouri but the stiffer winds and some natural eddies formed by side streams flowing into the river did make for some choppy paddling. The heat of the day was exhausting and when we took a break and climbed out of our canoes, we were slurped and sunk into about 3 inches of the infamous Missouri River mud. After a “bathroom” break, we all went in the river to cool off. I’ve never waded waist-deep into a river fully dressed, this time in my hiking pants, long sleeve shirt and Keen river shoes, dunking my head fully into the coolness of the water. It would later feel like a baptism in the river which had become so sacred to me by now.
We had planned to camp that night at Slaughter Creek which is the only site used by the Corps on the way west in 1805 and again heading back east in 1806. But as we approached the camp it was obviously very busy. About a dozen canoes, and one big blue pontoon boat, were already there. Orion and Colter scrambled up the muddy banks and back down and asked if we were willing to paddle another 4 miles to a primitive campsite called The Wall. We all immediately agreed and kept going. This yielded our most glorious campsite right on a bluff in a stand of huge cottonwoods. Even though we were all exhausted and Peter and I felt really stretched by the physicality of the day, it was the most wonderful evening. Dinner of roasted pork loin, green beans, roast potatoes, morels, and a dutch oven baked blueberry and pear cobbler was perfect. I crawled into my sleeping bag on what had now come to feel like a cushion of comfort after all that time paddling, and slept so soundly.
The last day’s paddle to Judith Landing was much shorter since we had gone so much farther the day before. It was a hard day even so because of the increased heat, the choppier waters and the cumulative effects of over 43 miles of paddling on our bodies. But we made it and I felt a huge accomplishment having navigated the multitude of challenges that made seeing this extraordinary place all the more precious. Along the way, in addition to the eagles, we were gifted by sitings of osprey, Canada geese, a hen turkey, deer, one rattlesnake, countless songbirds, the spectacular geology, the glorious night sky, the moon rises, and the sunsets. In addition, there was a witnessing of something authentic and new about myself that emerged in the solitary space and the challenges of that river. I intend to continue to navigate that inner journey even though the one on the river has ended.
Oh, and let the record show that we never did master the tent set-up thing.
Peter and Liz continue their pilgrimage to here in year nine, still living in their Airstream, and traveling now exclusively west of the Mississippi River.